Castello Aragonese, Ischia — photographed from a doorless helicopter
Italy · Gulf of Naples · IschiaI have always believed that water takes on various identities, but in Ischia, it feels like it has a complex, dual personality in the best possible way. One minute I am diving into the crisp, salty Tyrrhenian Sea, and the next, I am soaking in a rock pool so hot it feels like a giant outdoor bathtub.
Ischia is what I call the "Goldilocks" of the Gulf of Naples. It is not as manicured as Capri, nor as rugged as Procida: it is just right. While the masses were vying for a sliver of sand on the Amalfi Coast, I found myself on a ferry from Naples, watching the Aragonese Castle rise out of the haze like an ancient monolith from another century.
Forio, the island's largest comune, seen from above
The Swims
Sorgeto Bay: The Natural Pressure Cooker
Spiaggia di Varulo — a hidden cove accessible only by sea
If I am looking for a quiet, meditative escape, Sorgeto isn't it, especially not on a Sunday in July. But there is something thrillingly democratic about this place. After descending a winding staircase of 300 steps, I hit a tiny cove where boiling thermal water gushes directly into the sea.
It is a real-life science experiment: swim too close to the rocks and you are poached; swim a few feet further out and the cold sea snap wakes you up. The ritual here is simple: take a tufa pebble, rub it on the rocks to create a grey mud, and smear it over your face. I sat back, ignored the crowds, and let the volcanic minerals do the work, leaving with soft skin and a sense of having been well and truly steamed.
Centro Termale o' Vagnitiello — terraced pools cascade toward the sea
Parco Termale Castiglione — a constellation of thermal pools on the water's edge
Sant'Angelo and The Fumaroles
Sant'Angelo is a car-free fishing village that feels like a hidden, otherworldly paradise. If you walk the footpath toward Maronti Beach, you will find the Fumaroles: a unique volcanic phenomenon where gas bubbles at 100°C rise through the sand.
I watched locals cover themselves in hot sand up to their necks, a "cure-all" for whatever ails you. It is a grounding experience, quite literally. Between the steaming sand and the hawks circling Mount Epomeo above, Ischia gives me permission to be small.
Giardino Eden Resort — where the terrace meets the Tyrrhenian
Ischia Blu Resort — a floating platform of blue and white, hovering above the Tyrrhenian
Practical Information
- Best time to visit May to August for the coastal scene; September or October when the mountain air cools but the thermal pools remain balmy.
- How to get there A 1-hour hydrofoil or 1.5-hour ferry from Naples (Molo Beverello or Calata di Massa).
- Access Varied. Sorgeto requires a steep hike; Maronti is easily reached by bus or water taxi.
- Water temperature From a refreshing 16°C in the open sea to a steamy 40°C in the thermal parks.
- Must bring Waterproof sandals (volcanic rocks are sharp and the fumarole sand is hot), and a sense of adventure.
Spiaggia della Marina — the island's classic beach club colours
Left: Spiaggia Del Fungo, Forio — Right: Spiaggia della Chiaia, Forio
Spiaggia di San Pietro — the beach town grid from above
Lacco Ameno — the Albergo della Regina Isabella and its marina
Local Knowledge
Ischia has the most thermal waters in all of Europe. In Roman times, the wealthy would set up social projects to send the sick to these springs for recovery. Today, that spirit of "water as medicine" lives on in the sprawling thermal gardens like Poseidon and Negombo, which feel more like botanical art installations than simple spas.
Hotel Providence, Forio — the thermal pool as sculptural object
Nearby
Il Focolare
Cretaio Hillside, Barano
I head to the hills for the island's most representative dish: coniglio all'ischitana (Ischian-style rabbit). To be authentic, the rabbit must be raised in underground burrows and slow-cooked in a terracotta pot with garlic, wine, and wild herbs. It takes hours to prepare, so I always book ahead.
Da Cocò
Piazzale Aragonese, 1, Ischia Ponte
Set directly beneath the shadow of the Aragonese Castle, this is a local favourite for simple, high-quality seafood. I recommend the fried baby octopus and their legendary fig tart.
Keramos d'Ischia
Ischia Porto
The island's history brought a tradition of pottery that still fills the shops today. A ceramic cone-shaped object is a symbol of good luck here, but only if you give it to someone else.
Hotel Continental Mare — a clifftop pool suspended above the deep blue
Ischia is a reminder that the best of what our world has to offer lies in the things we cannot make: the heat from the earth, the salt of the sea, and the connection I find when I dive into both.